A COMMENT FROM THE AUTHOR: Your comments below have spurred a thought in me, which is: I'd be very interested to receive recommendations for places to visit, in Britain and Ireland and even further afield. I can't promise to get to them all of course, but I'd love to hear about them, and add some to my list.
My request is Whitby, or Streoneshalh. It’s been many many years since I typed that word, and I’m surprised I remember the spelling. I have never been there, but this place has a vital presence in my life, through the story of Caedmon and Hild. I had no concept of encountering a saint when I first read their story, but I do think that is what happened, in hindsight. I would love to go myself some day, but if you went it would also be lovely.
My Patron Saint is St Erc of Slane. I would love to more about him and the ruins of his monastery on the hill of Slane. Also, I wonder if "Erc" is related to the modern name "Eric" any thoughts on that would be very welcome. Loved the interview with the Swedish Priest.
I would love to read your accounts of visits to Romania. I visited there a couple of years ago and only got to see a small section of Transylvania. But I saw enough to remain entranced by that wild land for the rest of my days.
If you fancy traveling further in Eastern Europe, Georgia also seems worth a visit. Like Ireland, it was an early national convert to Christianity that was never in the sphere of either Roman or Byzantine political influence.
Those of us in America will have to admire the riches of Christian Europe from afar. I'm still grappling the question of what it means for us here that we lack such holy sites and cultural riches — and what to do about it.
It’s not actually a Substack feature - you just add a link at the end of each article to buyMeACoffee or your PayPal account if you have one. Just makes it easier for your free subscribers to show their appreciation.
I hope Paul visits North East England, which is steeped in early Christian history. Try Lindisfarne (Holy Island). It’s an obvious choice, but still very lovely.
Saint Martins Canterbury which is the oldest church in the English speaking world is an interesting one. There’s a holy well in the graveyard but I could never find it. Maybe you would. Layer upon layer of building and worship, earliest dating back to 5th century. Said to originally be a pagan site of worship. Everything that came later in Canterbury started here. Also there an ossuary in St Leonard’s Hythe which is worth a visit. Kent generally is an interesting county re early Christian sites as en route to Europe. Anyway really glad these special Sundays will continue. Thank you.
I'm so looking forward to this series - it'll also be a 'pilgrimage of memories' for me. Connemara is definitely a good place to start ...
Once you get to Wales (well, that's where the ferries go ...) then look out for place names starting in 'll', e.g. Llandeilo. "Llan" means 'place with a church or chapel' - not that other places didn't have churches or chapels without that name.
Personally, I've always loved visiting the small village churches wherever we went. There's something ineffable about standing in a place where for centuries people congregated for prayer and celebrations.
I was twice in St Tudno's church on Llandudno's Great Orme this year, which has an icon of the Saint inside and often sheep in the churchyard outside. There is a well on the Orme but I think it's on private land.
It's a long time since I was in North Wales ... but, in case someone wonders why the church for St Tudno (and the place itself) is called 'LLandudno' - well, this is Welsh where hard consonants get softened depending on what comes before ... to the despair of all non-Welsh speakers (I'm not a Welsh speaker, alas, either, but have learned a few bits and bobs).
I, a Swede with an English mother, went to Ireland years ago to accompany my American/Irish friend pilgrimage up Croagh Patrick mountain on St Patricks day. It rained, it looked like a short distance but it was not... we ended up crawling up and down on all four most of the time covered in mud surrounded by pilgrams walking barefooted backwards up the hill! One of my life's most memorable moments. It was a true statement how the landscape and the people in Ireland are integrated with the myths and the faith.
And ... we fell in love with the poet and philosopher John O´Donahue. His books, his recordings about our spiritual quests and how it can be found in nature. Curious about if he is someone you have turned to?
I saw the skulls on the shelves and it made me think of the monastic school where I used to work. The headmaster kept a skull on his desk and I remember it quite vividly from some of the meetings we had. I wonder why the skulls are separeted from the rest of the bones on those shelves? Does anyone know why?
On Mount Athos, when a monk dies he is sewn into the cassock he wore during life and then buried. Some years later, his body is exhumed, when the flesh has rotted away, and the bones are separated from the flesh and also placed in ossuaries. The skulls are placed separately. All of it serves as a constant reminder of death. Here's an article with more detail:
Thank you to those who supported my daughter Julia Elise Choquette's surgery. If anyone would like to pray for her on 1 October, the prayers would be very welcome. Her operation is in Düsseldorf[ by an expert in vascular surgery. She has had to come a very long way with her mother and sister.
I can't wait for this series. As newly Orthodox and living in North England, it will be great to learn of new pilgrimage sites I haven't visited yet. You could also try Whitby Abbey. St. Hilda, the Abbess, was sought out by kings for advice and guidance. She also held a council there that decided how the date of Pascha should be calculated.
l'm looking forward to this new series. The idea of pilgrimage seems to be making a comeback, 'having a moment' as they say, helped by The British Pilgrimage Trust and their book Britain's Pilgrim Places -https://www.britishpilgrimage.org
Looks good👍 Some interesting places on Anglesey….just a ferry trip. Penmon has the ruins of an old abbey and a well; Llaneilian church near Port Lynas is really interesting and there is well not too far away on the coastal path; there is also St Patrick’s church close to where St Patrick is supposed to have been shipwrecked near Cemaes
It will be a great adventure seeking out all these places. Have a wonderful time….looking forward to reading about it
A COMMENT FROM THE AUTHOR: Your comments below have spurred a thought in me, which is: I'd be very interested to receive recommendations for places to visit, in Britain and Ireland and even further afield. I can't promise to get to them all of course, but I'd love to hear about them, and add some to my list.
There is some wonderful history on the Lancashire Catholic martyrs
https://www.lancastercastle.com/history
and a beautiful (and well used) holy well I know well.
https://ladyewellshrine.co.uk/
Very happy to assist you if you are in the locality!
My request is Whitby, or Streoneshalh. It’s been many many years since I typed that word, and I’m surprised I remember the spelling. I have never been there, but this place has a vital presence in my life, through the story of Caedmon and Hild. I had no concept of encountering a saint when I first read their story, but I do think that is what happened, in hindsight. I would love to go myself some day, but if you went it would also be lovely.
Iona, Mull, Skye, and the other Hebrides would be brilliant - unless you've already done a lot of writing about them that I've missed.
My Patron Saint is St Erc of Slane. I would love to more about him and the ruins of his monastery on the hill of Slane. Also, I wonder if "Erc" is related to the modern name "Eric" any thoughts on that would be very welcome. Loved the interview with the Swedish Priest.
I would love to read your accounts of visits to Romania. I visited there a couple of years ago and only got to see a small section of Transylvania. But I saw enough to remain entranced by that wild land for the rest of my days.
If you fancy traveling further in Eastern Europe, Georgia also seems worth a visit. Like Ireland, it was an early national convert to Christianity that was never in the sphere of either Roman or Byzantine political influence.
Those of us in America will have to admire the riches of Christian Europe from afar. I'm still grappling the question of what it means for us here that we lack such holy sites and cultural riches — and what to do about it.
I second that!
Very much looking forward!
Wonderful. I can’t wait, but have to.
Dear Paul, why not add a Donate button to your pieces, so those of us who cannot afford a regular subscription can send you ad hoc support?
I didn't know they existed! Behind the technological times again. Thanks, I will investigate.
It’s not actually a Substack feature - you just add a link at the end of each article to buyMeACoffee or your PayPal account if you have one. Just makes it easier for your free subscribers to show their appreciation.
Good idea. Thanks.
Wonderful, St Wite's well and ossuary call.
I'm looking forward to spending the winter on the pilgrimage!
As a relative newcomer to England, I would love to read about your pilgrimages here — so that I may partake in them myself afterward.
I hope Paul visits North East England, which is steeped in early Christian history. Try Lindisfarne (Holy Island). It’s an obvious choice, but still very lovely.
Oh yes! Lots of wonderful places there - St Cuthbert’s Cave and Inner Farne are worth seeing. Also, St Aidan’s church in Bamburgh.
East Anglia and the Fens are also replete with interesting sites.
Oh, hiking the st cuthberts way in april! So excited,!
You’ll enjoy it I’m sure - so many special places en route.
Just did 100 miles of the camino frances,.in spring st cuthberts then more of the camino. The way is calling!
I certainly want to get there.
Saint Martins Canterbury which is the oldest church in the English speaking world is an interesting one. There’s a holy well in the graveyard but I could never find it. Maybe you would. Layer upon layer of building and worship, earliest dating back to 5th century. Said to originally be a pagan site of worship. Everything that came later in Canterbury started here. Also there an ossuary in St Leonard’s Hythe which is worth a visit. Kent generally is an interesting county re early Christian sites as en route to Europe. Anyway really glad these special Sundays will continue. Thank you.
I'm so looking forward to this series - it'll also be a 'pilgrimage of memories' for me. Connemara is definitely a good place to start ...
Once you get to Wales (well, that's where the ferries go ...) then look out for place names starting in 'll', e.g. Llandeilo. "Llan" means 'place with a church or chapel' - not that other places didn't have churches or chapels without that name.
Personally, I've always loved visiting the small village churches wherever we went. There's something ineffable about standing in a place where for centuries people congregated for prayer and celebrations.
I was twice in St Tudno's church on Llandudno's Great Orme this year, which has an icon of the Saint inside and often sheep in the churchyard outside. There is a well on the Orme but I think it's on private land.
It's a long time since I was in North Wales ... but, in case someone wonders why the church for St Tudno (and the place itself) is called 'LLandudno' - well, this is Welsh where hard consonants get softened depending on what comes before ... to the despair of all non-Welsh speakers (I'm not a Welsh speaker, alas, either, but have learned a few bits and bobs).
Good for you, Paul, getting out and about and physically visiting the sites...
It kind of makes a pagan out of you, you know ? as in not... cosmopolitan, I mean.
Looking forward to the trip behind my computer... ;-)
‘First let us make the younger generation good pagans and afterwards let us make them Christians.’ - C. S. Lewis
YES ! You are working to become a good pagan, and me too, and both of us in the same, and different ways... maybe.
Looking forward to your coming adventures:)
I, a Swede with an English mother, went to Ireland years ago to accompany my American/Irish friend pilgrimage up Croagh Patrick mountain on St Patricks day. It rained, it looked like a short distance but it was not... we ended up crawling up and down on all four most of the time covered in mud surrounded by pilgrams walking barefooted backwards up the hill! One of my life's most memorable moments. It was a true statement how the landscape and the people in Ireland are integrated with the myths and the faith.
And ... we fell in love with the poet and philosopher John O´Donahue. His books, his recordings about our spiritual quests and how it can be found in nature. Curious about if he is someone you have turned to?
https://www.johnodonohue.com/
I saw the skulls on the shelves and it made me think of the monastic school where I used to work. The headmaster kept a skull on his desk and I remember it quite vividly from some of the meetings we had. I wonder why the skulls are separeted from the rest of the bones on those shelves? Does anyone know why?
On Mount Athos, when a monk dies he is sewn into the cassock he wore during life and then buried. Some years later, his body is exhumed, when the flesh has rotted away, and the bones are separated from the flesh and also placed in ossuaries. The skulls are placed separately. All of it serves as a constant reminder of death. Here's an article with more detail:
https://catalog.obitel-minsk.com/blog/2017/12/the-burial-practices-on-mt-athos
Thank you for that. Mount Athos is a remarkable place.
Thank you to those who supported my daughter Julia Elise Choquette's surgery. If anyone would like to pray for her on 1 October, the prayers would be very welcome. Her operation is in Düsseldorf[ by an expert in vascular surgery. She has had to come a very long way with her mother and sister.
I can't wait for this series. As newly Orthodox and living in North England, it will be great to learn of new pilgrimage sites I haven't visited yet. You could also try Whitby Abbey. St. Hilda, the Abbess, was sought out by kings for advice and guidance. She also held a council there that decided how the date of Pascha should be calculated.
l'm looking forward to this new series. The idea of pilgrimage seems to be making a comeback, 'having a moment' as they say, helped by The British Pilgrimage Trust and their book Britain's Pilgrim Places -https://www.britishpilgrimage.org
I've also written about pilgrimage routes and - today! - St Edith of Wilton on my 'stack at https://jackfrench.substack.com
One place I recommend to visit is the Saxon Church at Bradford-on-Avon - the most simple, perfect, peaceful space I've ever entered https://substack.com/@jackfrench/note/c-67144378
Looks good👍 Some interesting places on Anglesey….just a ferry trip. Penmon has the ruins of an old abbey and a well; Llaneilian church near Port Lynas is really interesting and there is well not too far away on the coastal path; there is also St Patrick’s church close to where St Patrick is supposed to have been shipwrecked near Cemaes
It will be a great adventure seeking out all these places. Have a wonderful time….looking forward to reading about it