A COMMENT FROM THE AUTHOR: Your comments below have spurred a thought in me, which is: I'd be very interested to receive recommendations for places to visit, in Britain and Ireland and even further afield. I can't promise to get to them all of course, but I'd love to hear about them, and add some to my list.
My request is Whitby, or Streoneshalh. It’s been many many years since I typed that word, and I’m surprised I remember the spelling. I have never been there, but this place has a vital presence in my life, through the story of Caedmon and Hild. I had no concept of encountering a saint when I first read their story, but I do think that is what happened, in hindsight. I would love to go myself some day, but if you went it would also be lovely.
I would love to read your accounts of visits to Romania. I visited there a couple of years ago and only got to see a small section of Transylvania. But I saw enough to remain entranced by that wild land for the rest of my days.
If you fancy traveling further in Eastern Europe, Georgia also seems worth a visit. Like Ireland, it was an early national convert to Christianity that was never in the sphere of either Roman or Byzantine political influence.
Those of us in America will have to admire the riches of Christian Europe from afar. I'm still grappling the question of what it means for us here that we lack such holy sites and cultural riches — and what to do about it.
My Patron Saint is St Erc of Slane. I would love to more about him and the ruins of his monastery on the hill of Slane. Also, I wonder if "Erc" is related to the modern name "Eric" any thoughts on that would be very welcome. Loved the interview with the Swedish Priest.
It’s not actually a Substack feature - you just add a link at the end of each article to buyMeACoffee or your PayPal account if you have one. Just makes it easier for your free subscribers to show their appreciation.
First comment here. Highly looking forward to our pilgrimage(s) this winter. I completed the Portuguese Camino this June, so I have a bit of a "pilgrimage fever" at the moment.
A recommendation for exploration. I live in Western Norway, and we have a great saint all to our own: St Sunniva. As tradition tells us, Sunniva was an Irish Christian princess who spurned the advances of a pagan prince. She took to the North Sea with a few of her companions, landed here in Norway, built a monastery (and several holy wells), and sought a life of holiness in the wild (and I truly mean, wild) terrain of Norway. Sunniva is the patron saint of Bergen, and an early Irish arrival just when Norway was becoming Christian.
Think about St Sunniva? There is an Irish connection, one with England, and Norway of course, plus we can see in Sunniva's story the slow Christianization of Scandinavia and the ending of the Viking Age. All of these things combine together in Sunniva's life, our very own Irish-Norwegian saint.
I'm so looking forward to this series - it'll also be a 'pilgrimage of memories' for me. Connemara is definitely a good place to start ...
Once you get to Wales (well, that's where the ferries go ...) then look out for place names starting in 'll', e.g. Llandeilo. "Llan" means 'place with a church or chapel' - not that other places didn't have churches or chapels without that name.
Personally, I've always loved visiting the small village churches wherever we went. There's something ineffable about standing in a place where for centuries people congregated for prayer and celebrations.
I was twice in St Tudno's church on Llandudno's Great Orme this year, which has an icon of the Saint inside and often sheep in the churchyard outside. There is a well on the Orme but I think it's on private land.
It's a long time since I was in North Wales ... but, in case someone wonders why the church for St Tudno (and the place itself) is called 'LLandudno' - well, this is Welsh where hard consonants get softened depending on what comes before ... to the despair of all non-Welsh speakers (I'm not a Welsh speaker, alas, either, but have learned a few bits and bobs).
Saint Martins Canterbury which is the oldest church in the English speaking world is an interesting one. There’s a holy well in the graveyard but I could never find it. Maybe you would. Layer upon layer of building and worship, earliest dating back to 5th century. Said to originally be a pagan site of worship. Everything that came later in Canterbury started here. Also there an ossuary in St Leonard’s Hythe which is worth a visit. Kent generally is an interesting county re early Christian sites as en route to Europe. Anyway really glad these special Sundays will continue. Thank you.
Great stuff Paul, if you feel like a tramp around the English/Welsh border then you'll be very welcome to stay with us - we even have an orthodox monastery not far from us and plenty of ancient sites. God Bless you
Greatly looking forward to this, Paul -- sounds marvelous!
Somewhere amongst my many unshelved volumes is an old book by the architect Ralph Adams Cram called 'The Ruined Abbeys of Great Britain.' It dates from the early 1900's and has a number of B&W photos and line drawings. Well worth tracking down a copy -- it went throujgh several editions on both sides of the pond so shouldn't be too hard to find one.
I can't wait for this series. As newly Orthodox and living in North England, it will be great to learn of new pilgrimage sites I haven't visited yet. You could also try Whitby Abbey. St. Hilda, the Abbess, was sought out by kings for advice and guidance. She also held a council there that decided how the date of Pascha should be calculated.
I, a Swede with an English mother, went to Ireland years ago to accompany my American/Irish friend pilgrimage up Croagh Patrick mountain on St Patricks day. It rained, it looked like a short distance but it was not... we ended up crawling up and down on all four most of the time covered in mud surrounded by pilgrams walking barefooted backwards up the hill! One of my life's most memorable moments. It was a true statement how the landscape and the people in Ireland are integrated with the myths and the faith.
And ... we fell in love with the poet and philosopher John O´Donahue. His books, his recordings about our spiritual quests and how it can be found in nature. Curious about if he is someone you have turned to?
Just returned from a trip to Romania, where I visited the painted monasteries of Bucovina. Definitely worth a visit. In the UK, well, as I am based in the northeast I'd have to echo what's already been said about Lindisfarne, but also Durham Cathedral, of course, for Cuthbert and Bede, and Ripon Cathedral too (where Cuthbert was for a time guest-master). Also at Ripon, the Saxon crypt, and some wonderful misericords in the Quire, said to have inspired Lewis Carroll. Not to mention all the ruined monasteries scattered across Yorkshire... Fountains, Rievaulx, Jervaulx, Mount Grace Priory, Byland... to name but a few... and then Holystone (a beautiful well) in Northumberland, Holywell, in North Wales, of course, and Pennant Melangell... there's so much, in so many places, it's hard to know where to stop!
I hope Paul visits North East England, which is steeped in early Christian history. Try Lindisfarne (Holy Island). It’s an obvious choice, but still very lovely.
Thank you for having the courage to step into the unknown in regards to where God is leading his people going forward. Even in Orthodoxy, the church is being ripped to shreds as Russian Orthodox (led by an evil man, Metropolitan Kiril) fights against Ukrainian Orthodox.
However, as you journey to the sacred places of ancient Christianity, I would propose that you at least consider the amazing history of the Armenian Orthodox Church, established in 301 AD (before Constantine). The Mother Church is at Etchmiadzin, near Yerevan. There are dozens of churches of ancient origin. Hripsime (618 AD); Geghard (built into rock as a protection from the Mongols); Talin Cathedral (600s); … Also there is Amaras Monastery (founded by St Gregory in 400s AD, oldest monastery in the world) that is located in the ancient lands of Armenian (Nagorno Karabakh) and is now in danger of being destroyed by the occupying Azeris.
The ancient saints were also amazing: St. Gregory, St Mesrop Mashtots,…
This is a part of our Christian history that very few people know about, other than present day Armenians.
A COMMENT FROM THE AUTHOR: Your comments below have spurred a thought in me, which is: I'd be very interested to receive recommendations for places to visit, in Britain and Ireland and even further afield. I can't promise to get to them all of course, but I'd love to hear about them, and add some to my list.
Iona, Mull, Skye, and the other Hebrides would be brilliant - unless you've already done a lot of writing about them that I've missed.
My request is Whitby, or Streoneshalh. It’s been many many years since I typed that word, and I’m surprised I remember the spelling. I have never been there, but this place has a vital presence in my life, through the story of Caedmon and Hild. I had no concept of encountering a saint when I first read their story, but I do think that is what happened, in hindsight. I would love to go myself some day, but if you went it would also be lovely.
I would love to read your accounts of visits to Romania. I visited there a couple of years ago and only got to see a small section of Transylvania. But I saw enough to remain entranced by that wild land for the rest of my days.
If you fancy traveling further in Eastern Europe, Georgia also seems worth a visit. Like Ireland, it was an early national convert to Christianity that was never in the sphere of either Roman or Byzantine political influence.
Those of us in America will have to admire the riches of Christian Europe from afar. I'm still grappling the question of what it means for us here that we lack such holy sites and cultural riches — and what to do about it.
My Patron Saint is St Erc of Slane. I would love to more about him and the ruins of his monastery on the hill of Slane. Also, I wonder if "Erc" is related to the modern name "Eric" any thoughts on that would be very welcome. Loved the interview with the Swedish Priest.
There is some wonderful history on the Lancashire Catholic martyrs
https://www.lancastercastle.com/history
and a beautiful (and well used) holy well I know well.
https://ladyewellshrine.co.uk/
Very happy to assist you if you are in the locality!
Dear Paul, why not add a Donate button to your pieces, so those of us who cannot afford a regular subscription can send you ad hoc support?
I didn't know they existed! Behind the technological times again. Thanks, I will investigate.
It’s not actually a Substack feature - you just add a link at the end of each article to buyMeACoffee or your PayPal account if you have one. Just makes it easier for your free subscribers to show their appreciation.
Good idea. Thanks.
Hi Paul!
First comment here. Highly looking forward to our pilgrimage(s) this winter. I completed the Portuguese Camino this June, so I have a bit of a "pilgrimage fever" at the moment.
A recommendation for exploration. I live in Western Norway, and we have a great saint all to our own: St Sunniva. As tradition tells us, Sunniva was an Irish Christian princess who spurned the advances of a pagan prince. She took to the North Sea with a few of her companions, landed here in Norway, built a monastery (and several holy wells), and sought a life of holiness in the wild (and I truly mean, wild) terrain of Norway. Sunniva is the patron saint of Bergen, and an early Irish arrival just when Norway was becoming Christian.
Think about St Sunniva? There is an Irish connection, one with England, and Norway of course, plus we can see in Sunniva's story the slow Christianization of Scandinavia and the ending of the Viking Age. All of these things combine together in Sunniva's life, our very own Irish-Norwegian saint.
Something to think about, in any case.
I'm so looking forward to this series - it'll also be a 'pilgrimage of memories' for me. Connemara is definitely a good place to start ...
Once you get to Wales (well, that's where the ferries go ...) then look out for place names starting in 'll', e.g. Llandeilo. "Llan" means 'place with a church or chapel' - not that other places didn't have churches or chapels without that name.
Personally, I've always loved visiting the small village churches wherever we went. There's something ineffable about standing in a place where for centuries people congregated for prayer and celebrations.
I was twice in St Tudno's church on Llandudno's Great Orme this year, which has an icon of the Saint inside and often sheep in the churchyard outside. There is a well on the Orme but I think it's on private land.
It's a long time since I was in North Wales ... but, in case someone wonders why the church for St Tudno (and the place itself) is called 'LLandudno' - well, this is Welsh where hard consonants get softened depending on what comes before ... to the despair of all non-Welsh speakers (I'm not a Welsh speaker, alas, either, but have learned a few bits and bobs).
Wonderful, St Wite's well and ossuary call.
Saint Martins Canterbury which is the oldest church in the English speaking world is an interesting one. There’s a holy well in the graveyard but I could never find it. Maybe you would. Layer upon layer of building and worship, earliest dating back to 5th century. Said to originally be a pagan site of worship. Everything that came later in Canterbury started here. Also there an ossuary in St Leonard’s Hythe which is worth a visit. Kent generally is an interesting county re early Christian sites as en route to Europe. Anyway really glad these special Sundays will continue. Thank you.
Great stuff Paul, if you feel like a tramp around the English/Welsh border then you'll be very welcome to stay with us - we even have an orthodox monastery not far from us and plenty of ancient sites. God Bless you
Greatly looking forward to this, Paul -- sounds marvelous!
Somewhere amongst my many unshelved volumes is an old book by the architect Ralph Adams Cram called 'The Ruined Abbeys of Great Britain.' It dates from the early 1900's and has a number of B&W photos and line drawings. Well worth tracking down a copy -- it went throujgh several editions on both sides of the pond so shouldn't be too hard to find one.
I can't wait for this series. As newly Orthodox and living in North England, it will be great to learn of new pilgrimage sites I haven't visited yet. You could also try Whitby Abbey. St. Hilda, the Abbess, was sought out by kings for advice and guidance. She also held a council there that decided how the date of Pascha should be calculated.
Looking forward to your coming adventures:)
I, a Swede with an English mother, went to Ireland years ago to accompany my American/Irish friend pilgrimage up Croagh Patrick mountain on St Patricks day. It rained, it looked like a short distance but it was not... we ended up crawling up and down on all four most of the time covered in mud surrounded by pilgrams walking barefooted backwards up the hill! One of my life's most memorable moments. It was a true statement how the landscape and the people in Ireland are integrated with the myths and the faith.
And ... we fell in love with the poet and philosopher John O´Donahue. His books, his recordings about our spiritual quests and how it can be found in nature. Curious about if he is someone you have turned to?
https://www.johnodonohue.com/
Just returned from a trip to Romania, where I visited the painted monasteries of Bucovina. Definitely worth a visit. In the UK, well, as I am based in the northeast I'd have to echo what's already been said about Lindisfarne, but also Durham Cathedral, of course, for Cuthbert and Bede, and Ripon Cathedral too (where Cuthbert was for a time guest-master). Also at Ripon, the Saxon crypt, and some wonderful misericords in the Quire, said to have inspired Lewis Carroll. Not to mention all the ruined monasteries scattered across Yorkshire... Fountains, Rievaulx, Jervaulx, Mount Grace Priory, Byland... to name but a few... and then Holystone (a beautiful well) in Northumberland, Holywell, in North Wales, of course, and Pennant Melangell... there's so much, in so many places, it's hard to know where to stop!
I'm looking forward to spending the winter on the pilgrimage!
As a relative newcomer to England, I would love to read about your pilgrimages here — so that I may partake in them myself afterward.
I hope Paul visits North East England, which is steeped in early Christian history. Try Lindisfarne (Holy Island). It’s an obvious choice, but still very lovely.
I certainly want to get there.
Oh yes! Lots of wonderful places there - St Cuthbert’s Cave and Inner Farne are worth seeing. Also, St Aidan’s church in Bamburgh.
East Anglia and the Fens are also replete with interesting sites.
Oh, hiking the st cuthberts way in april! So excited,!
You’ll enjoy it I’m sure - so many special places en route.
Just did 100 miles of the camino frances,.in spring st cuthberts then more of the camino. The way is calling!
Very much looking forward!
Hi Paul. Would love to hear your take on the tiny ancient chapel of St Theodora at Vasta, that has 17 (or was it 11?) oak trees on its roof. I think it sits right on the intersection of your main themes actually... A touristy description and some photos can be found easily, eg here https://www.travel.gr/en/experiences-ee/vasta-the-village-in-arcadia-that-has-one-of-the-strangest-chapels-in-the-world-with-water-springing-from-its-foundations/
Paul,
Thank you for having the courage to step into the unknown in regards to where God is leading his people going forward. Even in Orthodoxy, the church is being ripped to shreds as Russian Orthodox (led by an evil man, Metropolitan Kiril) fights against Ukrainian Orthodox.
However, as you journey to the sacred places of ancient Christianity, I would propose that you at least consider the amazing history of the Armenian Orthodox Church, established in 301 AD (before Constantine). The Mother Church is at Etchmiadzin, near Yerevan. There are dozens of churches of ancient origin. Hripsime (618 AD); Geghard (built into rock as a protection from the Mongols); Talin Cathedral (600s); … Also there is Amaras Monastery (founded by St Gregory in 400s AD, oldest monastery in the world) that is located in the ancient lands of Armenian (Nagorno Karabakh) and is now in danger of being destroyed by the occupying Azeris.
The ancient saints were also amazing: St. Gregory, St Mesrop Mashtots,…
This is a part of our Christian history that very few people know about, other than present day Armenians.