23 Comments

I love these pilgrimages to the wells. I marvel that you find them. It dawns on me that all the pieces of yours I've read here suggest a pilgrimage.

Expand full comment

I love reading these on a Sunday but I’m a little disappointed Paul has turned left out of Clare rather than right. How long will it take him to get to Kerry?

Expand full comment

Not knowing where he'll go (er, went) next is half the fun.

Expand full comment
author

My tour is certainly skewed in favour of Clare and Galway, which is my stamping ground. There are a few surprises in store further afield though ...

Expand full comment
founding

Thanks for today's refreshing draft, Paul.

Does this well comprise a fresh water spring emerging from within the hexagonal stone surround? I assume it's not a seawater well, given the documented healing properties of drinking from it.

(Is there even such a thing as a salt water well? I suppose not).

Expand full comment
author

Yes, the freshwater rises in the hexagon and flows down the channel you can see pictured, into the bay.

Expand full comment

That was a surprise when you photographed the backdrop landside to this holy well. I suppose it goes to show that the holy places are right in our midst; and your piece about secrets of the city provides me, I think, an apt introduction as I make a start with China Mieville’s The City & The City.

Expand full comment
founding

Thanks, Paul.

For sure, I like my wells almost postcard pretty, except when they're postcard bleak, but I liked the story, and have been fond of bathing in very cold water for a long time now.

Expand full comment

Last I was in Galway City was the first time I saw the River Corrib flowing out into Galway Bay from O'Brien's Bridge. I'd never seen water move so fast, and I spent years living in New York's Hudson Valley along that mighty river. I know some hearty/crazy folk kayak those standing waves near that bridge but... good God man you couldn't pay me enough.

Expand full comment

I was just thinking about the Hudson Valley this morning. I miss it.

Expand full comment
founding

As you didn’t say, I assume it is Augustine of Hippo for whom the well is named? Is Augustine of Kent too “recent”?

Expand full comment
founding

Searching online just now, I found that there is also a St Augustine's Church in Galway, founded by the order of "Augustinians," and reading on Britannica I found that they at least take their name of Augustine of Hippo.

Expand full comment
author
Dec 11, 2023·edited Dec 11, 2023Author

Yes, it would be Augustine of Hippo. I'm not sure Augustine of Canterbury would have been known here. Though he is both an Orthodox and a Catholic saint.

Expand full comment
founding

I only knew about him myself because my daughter and I visited the ruins of his monastery, and on that drizzly day the only other visitors were a group of Orthodox pilgrims praying in the graveyard. That was before I had completed the last leg of my journey to Orthodoxy and I loved the place for the providence of God that encouraged me in a foreign land.

Expand full comment
Dec 10, 2023Liked by Paul Kingsnorth

Even today, the Church demands a high certainty that a purported cure is a miracle and employs doctors, psychologists and investigators to eliminate the possibility of fraud, mistake, or a natural explanation. It's too bad that some our purported medical cures lately were not subjected to the same high level of scrutiny.

Expand full comment

Damn, I just returned from trip to Galway yesterday. Wish I've known about this.

Expand full comment

All of Jesus' miracles were and are disbelieved, even his resurrection. Unbelievers should not be mocked but pitied.

Expand full comment

Oh this is fantastic! I love the story of the boy's healing and how it was told.

Expand full comment

Not a comment ,but a question which plagued me from the start of the article.

Surely the well fills with salt water? IF so why would anyone build a well for salt water?

I now see someone has asked already. But did not find a reply.

Jim

Expand full comment
author

See above! It's a freshwater spring on the tideline.

Expand full comment

This may go against the spirit of this series, but you can clearly see the well from Google street-view. Just look up "St Augustine’s Well, Galway City". The latest street view is from the land-ward side of the street, but a few of the earlier views are from the water side and give a much better view.

Interestingly across the street is what looks like an apartment building with the name "Augustine House"

Expand full comment

When did this “coin tossing “ in a well or fountain first begin? And is there an old underlying meaning to this?

Other than the “I wish I would come back someday “.

The 1st time I saw this was in Roma, at the Fontana di Trevi. But now one can see this almost everywhere there’s a well...

Expand full comment

I was thinking of your tour, Paul, when my wife and I were In Tucson recently. We were walking around the older part of town and came across El Tiradito, the only Catholic shrine in the United States dedicated to a sinner buried in unconsecrated ground. According to tradition, the man buried there died fighting for the love of a woman. I suppose there are worse things to die over. The nooks and crannies around the shrine were peppered with candles and bits of paper. None of my business what was on those notes, but I wondered, nonetheless. What circumstances, what ancient impulse led people to leave their pleas, thanks, and prayers behind? Probably because there was something holy about that place. We both felt it.

Expand full comment